On Sunday night in Los Angeles, Kylie Jenner made her Victoria's Secret runway debut wearing the brand's first Fantasy Bra shown on the catwalk since 2018, CNN reports.

The Jacob & Co. creation is valued at $50 million — CNN notes previous versions were priced at a comparatively modest $1 million — and was built by 15 artisans over more than 1,000 hours.

Vogue describes a piece of 4,410 natural diamonds in seven cuts surrounding a 75.54-carat Fancy Vivid yellow diamond, weighing just under four pounds, with no fabric at all — only gold and diamonds.

The Star, reprinting The New York Times' Vanessa Friedman, frames the reveal as more than jewelry: it exposed, in her view, how little actual change occurred despite the soul-searching of the early 2020s about a brand that displayed women 'like dream dolls of the bedroom.'

The critique lands precisely because the comeback has been engineered as a joyful reset — CNN reports creative director Adam Selman dubbed the show 'Fandemonium' and said the Fantasy Bra was the most fan-requested item from last year's show.

The Star's account lists the reversals: the runway was cancelled in 2019 after ties between then-owner Les Wexner and Jeffrey Epstein were exposed, revived in 2024; the Angels, retired in 2021 for a woman-focused collective, were unretired two years ago; even Gisele Bündchen appeared in a cameo video, rumored to walk until a broken foot.

The show returned to Los Angeles for the first time in nearly 20 years. CNN adds that veteran Angels like Adriana Lima notched her 21st walk, while newer recruits such as Paloma Elsesser and Alex Consani joined the lineup.

The tension is real, and the money side is working. CNN reports the brand's CEO Hillary Super told Fortune the company is committed to diversity 'without being performative,' and that the company doubled its share price earlier this summer.

The Star counters that the show still perpetrates a 'Vargas girl-Playboy tradition of sexy' defined by the male gaze, and asks why Selman couldn't imagine 'a whole new idea about lingerie entirely' — suggesting, wryly, that maybe that's the real fantasy.

Selman told Vogue his aim is straightforward: 'It's for the fans,' describing the bra as 'almost museum quality' and Jenner as a 'cultural powerhouse' chosen to extend beyond any single industry.

The Star's piece, meanwhile, proposes the open question the brand must now answer: whether it can communicate physical agency without resorting to sexy clichés.

With its 'Angels Among Us' YouTube casting show drawing over 5 million views on its first episode per CNN, the audience is clearly still watching — what they'll be shown next is the debate.