The 41st Hyères International Festival of Fashion, Photography and Accessories crowned Chinese designer Yui Chen winner of the Grand Jury Prize for her collection "Food Cover," chosen by a fashion jury presided over by Chloé creative director Chemena Kamali.

Kamali praised a "distinctive voice," saying the jury picked a candidate whose vision "goes beyond the present," pairing strong concept with technique that creates tension, silhouettes, emotion and joy.

Chen, who is based in Shanghai, deconstructed the humble food cover — the tent-like shield over a dinner plate — into three-dimensional silhouettes that rethink the space around the body.

Vogue reports she called the unisex, women's wear-leaning lineup "a way of preserving childhood memories," and developed it with Montex: a yellow lingerie dress topped by a collapsible overlayer in transparent lace, or a cage of leather bows.

WWD notes recycled leather appeared in an all-encompassing coat covered in bows, with sleeping dresses and shirts exploring volume, sheer layering and foldability.

Chen models every piece in miniature before making the garment, and told Vogue her dream is "to create a whole universe and language, like Issey Miyake did."

The prizes were spread widely. Vogue reports Xiao Xu of China won the Supima Prize for "Uncanny," turning sweaters and cardigans into latex constructions inspired by the archival book "Dressing for Pleasure."

WWD reports Mexican-German designer Dieter Vlasich Obermann took the Le19M Métiers d'Arts Prize with "Tiliches," working with Yucatán embroiderers and reinterpreting Maison Michel hat-making as footwear, while Paris-based Dutch designer Rachel Luurssen won the Atelier des Matières prize for a collection built from a plus-size model's body.

Spain's Brais Albor Rodriguez earned both a special mention and the public prize for a squirrel-themed collection. Both outlets note all three competition juries — fashion, photography and accessories — were headed by women: Kamali, artist Camille Vivier and Cecilie Bahnsen.

The firsts extend to the institution itself. Both WWD and Vogue frame this edition as a reset under Valérie Duport, elected president of Villa Noailles in July, and managing director Hugo Lucchino, who came in as the festival battled financial woes and the exit of founder Jean-Pierre Blanc.

WWD reports they streamlined the program, moved the show to the Forum du Casino in the heart of Hyères, and refocused resources on finalists rather than side events.

Vogue says Duport disclosed a plan to pay off roughly €1.3 million of debt within two years, and both report the exhibitions stay open through February 28, 2027, with Lucchino insisting it is "not a festival for a happy few" and that winners will be showcased during Paris Fashion Week in 2027.