Hermès Takes Flight With an Airy Spring 2027 Show

Nadège Vanhée's spring 2027 Hermès show traded leather-weather coziness for gauzy knits and bold color at Paris's Garde Républicaine.

Hermès creative director Nadège Vanhée presented her spring/summer 2027 collection on Saturday, October 3, inside the bright white interior of the historic headquarters and cavalry barracks of the Garde Républicaine in Paris, per ELLE's runway review. The show notes cited "the shape of air" and "a sky in motion" as inspiration, and ELLE says the aesthetic refracted the cozy, streamlined "leather weather" look through a lighter lens. Reuters, in a report carried by AOL, confirms the gauzy fabrics and airy framing on an unusually warm, sunny October day, with actors Sofía Vergara and Emmy Rossum fanning themselves front row.

ELLE reports the show opened with sheer dresses layered over graphic underpinnings, a key theme, followed by structured utilitarian jackets with an aviator edge and lightweight tailored coats. Reuters describes loose-knit brown and black tops and dresses over bandeau tops, plus mesh dresses embroidered with panels of fine leather strips, with open latticework even appearing on cream leather bucket bags. Standouts per ELLE included paper-thin calfskin jackets and parkas cut in silk pongee, alongside thigh-high slits on midi leather skirts and side-zipped trousers, according to Reuters.

While Hermès is best known for its bags, ELLE says the heart of the collection lay in the label's historic wardrobe workhorses: the belt and the silk scarf. Vanhée offered belt variations including belt bags and wide sculptural corset styles, with belts also traversing wrists as chunky cuff bracelets, ELLE reports. Silk scarves were integrated into strappy tube-like tops, and printed, pleated versions trailed from the fronts of pilot-inspired jumpsuits, according to ELLE's review. Reuters notes models mostly wore flat, minimalist leather sandals, with the occasional knee-high boot.

ELLE characterizes the collection's bright palette and modernist silhouettes as a slight step away from the darker, equestrian aesthetic Hermès has favored in recent seasons. After opening neutrals, the house leaned into its classic poppy orange, then vivid tomato reds and punchy scarlets, with the second half devoted to chocolate brown, slate, taxicab yellow and olive green, per ELLE. Reuters adds specifics: a billowing orange parka over a knit mini dress and a zipped skirt in what Vanhée called sunflower yellow with a matching high-collared jacket. ELLE notes Vanhée even took her bow in bright red from head to toe.

The airy pivot arrives at a consequential moment for the maison. Reuters reports Vanhée, womenswear creative director since 2014, will present the first haute couture collection in Hermès history in January, while Paris Fashion Week runs through October 6 with Chanel and Louis Vuitton shows still to come. Reuters also notes the group is grappling with slowing demand for luxury handbags and clothes, with shares down 39% since the start of the year — context that makes any stylistic gamble at the tightly controlled house a talking point for the industry's devoted watchers.